Cheonmachong Tomb, Gyeongju

Cheonmachong is the only tomb in the Daereungwon group open inside, and for 3,000 won (adults) you can learn about its structure and gold crown. The Korea Tourism Organization dates it to the late 5th to early 6th century; it was excavated in 1973 and is 12.7 m high. It is named after the Cheonmado (Flying Horse) painting found here; the commentary notes the interior uses replicas, with real finds in the Gyeongju National Museum. It opens 9:00 to 21:30, every day of the year.

A Silla stone-mound wooden-chamber tomb of the late 5th to early 6th century, named for the Flying Horse painting found in it. It is 12.7 m high and 50 m across; inside the mound is a layer of river stones around a timber chamber 6.5 m long, 4.2 m wide and 2.1 m high, with a wooden coffin in the centre. Excavated in 1973, it is the only Daereungwon tomb open to the public. The commentary says it was actually a trial dig before excavating the neighbouring Hwangnamdaechong, which was too large to tackle directly with the technology of the time; the north mound of Hwangnamdaechong would have needed 200 people working daily for more than six months, a show of the ruler's authority.

National merit recipients and their spouses, registered disabled people, war veterans and holders of the 18 May democracy merit card, among others, get in free; call +82-54-771-8650 for details. For the wider walk see Daereungwon, and continue to nearby Cheomseongdae.

A wooden coffin was placed, a timber chamber built over it, stones piled around and on top, clay packed over to keep water out, and earth heaped to form the mound. As the timber rotted, the stones and earth collapsed, so at excavation the mound was sunken like a volcanic crater; it has since been refilled. Inside the coffin, the gold crown lay over the face like a mask, with a sword and gold belt at the waist and an axe and gilt-bronze shoes at the feet. The mass of stones over the chamber kept looters out, since digging brought them down, so the finds survived intact. The origin of the type is unresolved: one view links it to northern nomad tombs, another to a fusion of Goguryeo stone-mound tombs and Silla stone-cist tombs.

Cheonmado is a saddle flap of birch bark painted with a flying horse, the first painting found in a Korean tomb and a National Treasure as a masterpiece of Silla painting. The commentary says the original is in the National Museum of Korea and the one displayed inside is a replica; other information says finds are shown at the Gyeongju National Museum, so check before you go. The horse, tongue out and tail raised in flight, may have carried the dead to the heavens. Recently some suggest it is a girin, a horned mythical beast, because infrared photography showed a horn-like shape on the head; the commentary adds that whatever the animal, the painting's value is unchanged.

The Cheonmachong crown is a classic Silla crown: three branch-shaped uprights in front and two antler-shaped ones behind, hung with sprouting leaves and comma-shaped jade (gogok). The Korea Tourism Organization says it is regarded as the largest and most splendid crown found so far. The gold belt hangs fish, jade, whetstone and tweezer-shaped pendants whose meaning is unclear. The commentary introduces the view that crowns were funerary objects: the Geumnyeongchong crown reached down to the shoulders, as did those of Cheonmachong and Hwangnamdaechong, and the uprights are so fragile they bend at the slightest movement. On origins, one theory traces them to Siberian shamans' antler crowns and sacred-tree worship; another to independent development linked to the birth legend of Kim Alji.

• Enter before 21:30.
• Finds inside are replicas; see the originals at the National Museum of Korea or the Gyeongju National Museum.
• Daereungwon is free; only Cheonmachong charges.
• If you qualify for a discount, bring proof and ask on +82-54-771-8650.

• Silla artefact fans: the gold crown, Flying Horse replica and gold belt.
• Families: the tomb structure shown in reconstruction.
• Evening walkers: open until 21:30; continue to Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond.

Fees, hours and programmes can change, so check the latest information before you visit.