Ubud travel guide

Within Bali, Ubud has become a destination in its own right for culture and wellness. It became world-famous after Eat Pray Love, and in the Instagram era its rice terraces and jungle swings spread the word again.

Ubud feels completely different from Bali's southern beaches (Kuta, Seminyak, Jimbaran). Set in an inland basin at around 300 m, it is 2–3°C cooler than the coast at midday, with insects humming instead of beach bars. Balinese Hindu temples and the royal palace remain in the middle of town, gamelan performances are held in temple courtyards every evening, and you'll meet canang sari offerings with burning incense beside the corner shop.

On our first visit, what struck us was how cafés, yoga studios and galleries pack every lane even though the roads are narrow and there are hardly any pavements. Despite the first impression of a town you can walk all day, you actually need a scooter or Grab now and then to link places, so understand the town's layout before planning.

This guide covers Ubud's character, three essential sights, local food, getting there from the airport, plans and budget, the best season, where to stay and practical tips.

Visa and entry requirements for Indonesia

Whether you need a visa, how long you can stay and which pre-arrival forms apply all depend on your nationality and the purpose of your trip. Check the official source below, and your own government's travel advice, before you book.

• Official eVisa website for Indonesia (including e-VOA) (Directorate General of Immigration, Republic of Indonesia)
• Visa on Arrival / e-VOA information (Directorate General of Immigration, Indonesia)

Ubud is an inland town in Gianyar Regency on Bali. The "Ubud area" usually means Desa Ubud plus surrounding villages (Peliatan, Penestanan, Kedewatan and others), about 42 km² in all. The population is in the 70,000s, but with long-staying foreigners and digital nomads it feels much bigger.

• Location: about 36 km northeast of Ngurah Rai International Airport (DPS), 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours by car depending on traffic.
• Terrain: hills between 200 and 600 m. In the rainy season, mist is common and the rice terraces are at their greenest.
• Culture: Balinese Hinduism (Agama Hindu Dharma) runs deep in daily life; canang sari offerings in front of shops every morning are a normal sight.
• Main axis: the "T" formed by Jl. Raya Ubud running east–west and Jl. Monkey Forest running north–south.

The restaurants and shops locals actually use cluster in lanes one block off this T. Cafés and galleries on the main roads carry a slight tourist mark-up, while warungs (family-run eateries) one block in often sell the same dishes 30–40% cheaper.

1. Tegallalang Rice Terrace

A terraced rice landscape about 9 km north of central Ubud, 25 to 30 minutes by car. It sits on the subak irrigation system that began around the 9th century and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage "Cultural Landscape of Bali Province" (2012). Visit before 7 am and you can see the misty terraces almost alone; after 9 am, tour buses arrive and the photo paths clog.

• Admission: about IDR 25,000 per person.
• Best time: just after sunrise until 9 am, or the golden light after 4 pm.
• Note: unofficial gates with "Donation" signs ask for extra money here and there. It isn't compulsory, so you can decline.

2. Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary

A 12.5-hectare nature reserve at the southern end of Jl. Monkey Forest, home to about 1,200 long-tailed macaques (Macaca fascicularis) and the 14th-century Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal temple.

• Admission: adults IDR 130,000, children IDR 100,000 (official site); open 9:00 to 18:00, last entry 17:00.
• Tip: monkeys may grab bags, sunglasses or water bottles carried in your hands, so put them inside your bag beforehand.
• Not allowed: bringing food (monkeys rush at it as soon as they notice). Selfie sticks have been snatched too.

3. Saraswati Temple (Pura Taman Saraswati)

A 17th-century temple in the middle of Ubud's main road, down the lane beside Starbucks Ubud. A lotus pond stretches from the entrance, earning it the nickname "water palace". There is no admission fee, and in the evening Legong dance performances are held on the stage in front 3 or 4 times a week.

• Admission: free (the inner sanctum is closed; the outer garden is open).
• Performance tickets: about IDR 100,000–150,000, sold on site from 30 minutes before.
• Dress code: a sarong (wrapped at the waist) is mandatory and lent free at the entrance.

The best way to eat traditional Balinese food in Ubud isn't the polished "Balinese fine dining" but neighbourhood warungs run by older couples and families. We only realised on our second visit: the same nasi campur cost IDR 20,000–30,000 at a warung and IDR 120,000–150,000 in hotel dining, nearly five times more, and the warung version was far punchier.

• Babi guling: whole roast suckling pig. Ibu Oka 3 near Ubud market is the most famous, but it often sells out after 1 pm.
• Nasi campur: white rice topped with 6–8 side dishes, Bali's set meal. Each warung's mix differs, so it's fun to compare over several days.
• Bebek betutu: duck marinated in spices for 24 hours and roasted in banana leaves. It takes over an hour after ordering, so phone ahead.
• Sate lilit: Balinese skewers of minced fish, coconut and spices wrapped around lemongrass sticks.
• Vegan options: Ubud has Bali's most developed vegan scene; cafés such as Alchemy, Sayuri and Moksa are established favourites.

One caution: Balinese food can taste quite sweet and spicy. Many places will leave out the heat if you say "Tidak pedas, please" (not spicy), so build up gradually.

Fly into Ngurah Rai International Airport (DPS), then drive to Ubud. For eligible nationalities, a 30-day visa on arrival costs IDR 500,000 (Indonesian Immigration); applying in advance online as an e-VOA on the official evisa.imigrasi.go.id site can shorten the arrival queue. Check eligibility for your nationality first.

Within Ubud, ride-hailing apps such as Grab and Gojek are safest. Drivers touting "Taxi? Transport?" at hotels and sights often quote any price without a meter, so open the app rather than bargaining on the street.

The table below is a per-person budget for 3 nights in Ubud, excluding flights (in Korean won).

Once on the ground, activity costs add up faster than expected. "Full-day tour" packages combining rice terraces, waterfalls, a volcano sunrise and a jungle swing often go for about IDR 500,000 per person, nearly half the price of separate tours.

One date to watch is Nyepi, the Balinese Hindu new year. Every March (19 March in 2026) there is a day of silence when all activity is banned and even foreigners may not leave their hotels. The airport also closes for 24 hours, so check before booking flights.

• Central Ubud (around Jl. Raya Ubud): walking distance to Saraswati Temple, the palace and the market. A good activity base, but with traffic noise late into the night. Suits first-timers and short stays of 1–2 nights.
• South of Monkey Forest Road: dense with boutique hotels and pool villas, walkable to sights yet relatively quiet down the lanes. Often recommended for honeymooners and couples.
• Penestanan and Sayan: luxury resorts along the Ayung River gorge, including Four Seasons Sayan and Mandapa; 10–15 minutes by car to the centre.
• Kedewatan: quiet villas overlooking rice terraces. Hard to get around without a car, so you'll need to drive or a daily car package.
• Tegallalang and Tegas: northern outskirts in rice-terrace country. Good value but few restaurants and cafés, better for rest than long stays.

For a first Ubud trip, splitting your stay, such as 1 night in central Ubud and 2 nights in Sayan or Kedewatan, works surprisingly well: markets and temples in town, then lazing in a pool villa outside.

• Water: never drink tap water. Carry hotel bottled water, or use the Refill My Bottle app to find some 80 free refill stations in Ubud.
• Cash: Ubud market, warungs and spas are often cash-only, so carry about IDR 500,000 a day. Use ATMs from major banks such as BCA and Mandiri; skimming has been reported at standalone ATMs.
• Dress code: temples require covered shoulders and knees and a sarong. Sarongs are lent free at entrances, but bring your own if you're concerned about hygiene.
• Spas: spas on the main road are pricier, while family-run spas one block in offer similar quality for much less.
• Scooter rental: fatal accidents involving foreigners are reported every year. An International Driving Permit is required; check your insurance and watch for helmet checks.
• Booking apps: popular warungs and yoga studios may need booking through apps such as Mindbody or TheFork.